Sunday, August 2, 2009
Has anyone found a Havanese breeder where they had a pleasant and knowledgable experience with? thanks?
Answers:
If your wanting to look more into this breed u can do so by searching C.K.C.A.
Canadian,kennel,club,associati... also have an American kennel club.They will have lists of breeders of all dogs n u can read up on the breeder n there dogs.What there like n feedback from people who have bought the breed from them.
Simply put, yes. What is it that you are looking for in a breeder?? Are you interested in becoming involved in showing, agility, obedience??? Or do you want a breeder that will babysit for you when you are away???
When shopping on the web I found several who were patient and very informative. Many seemed to have fine pups but required traveling to another state. I finally chose one who is in my state because I wanted to meet the puppy and talk with the breeder then go home to think about it, since this is a lifelong commitment.
My Havanese came from Sidekick Farm. He is a happy, sharp, gentle, bouncy delight. Just what I was looking for. The breeder is always ready to help me when I email her.
Hope you find a puppy as wonderful as mine.
Has anyone flown with their dog before?
I am flying from florida to maryland with my dog in june. she will be in the cabin with me. i've heard about meds that the vet can give me and about aromatherapy stuff that is supposed to calm the dog. just wondering if anyone has tried these products with any success or if anyone has other suggestions. thanks!
Answers:
i flown with my dog to and from europe on a 9 hour flight in cabin with me,,, i gave her a pill that the vet told me to made sure she had a bone with her so when she got an attack of nerves she can chew on it, a blanket or something shes familiar with so she has a familiar smell. and in my case since it was such a long flight i gave her some water the last few hours
I wouldn't use any of that stuff, but check with the vet when you go to get the health certificate. BTW you still need a health certificate even with the dog going into the cabin with you
How does your dog do in her crate in the car on a longer than normal car ride?
If you think about that question and you know that she does okay for extended periods of time in her crate in the car, then you have a pretty good idea that she will do okay in her crate on the plane.
But if she does do not do so well in her crate in the car, you may want to consider a light sedative or anxiety pill your veterinarian can give you to give to her the day of the flight.
When I flew with my 12 pound dog, she mostly slept in her crate. I put in her favorite toy and a chew treat, and although she was curious as to what was happening on take off, she settled down and was okay afterwards. I would never tranquilize my dogs, and I have had to fly show dogs all over and I have even flown with my service dog nineteen times so far.
You just have to take in to consideration how you think your dog will handle it.
I have flown w/ my mini schnauzer several times. One time I did give her a tranquilizer pill, but it left her a bit groggy. Get some Nature's Remedy to take along, just in case she gets anxious. You cannot overdose, and it works fairly quickly.
Also, when you go thru security, take your dog out of the carrier, and carry her thru. The first time I flew w/ my dog, I left her in the carrier thru the x-ray machine. The x-rays didn't hurt her, but the female screener let out a loud yelp when she saw movement! I could just imagine her seeing a skeleton, w/ a wagging tail!
Answers:
i flown with my dog to and from europe on a 9 hour flight in cabin with me,,, i gave her a pill that the vet told me to made sure she had a bone with her so when she got an attack of nerves she can chew on it, a blanket or something shes familiar with so she has a familiar smell. and in my case since it was such a long flight i gave her some water the last few hours
I wouldn't use any of that stuff, but check with the vet when you go to get the health certificate. BTW you still need a health certificate even with the dog going into the cabin with you
How does your dog do in her crate in the car on a longer than normal car ride?
If you think about that question and you know that she does okay for extended periods of time in her crate in the car, then you have a pretty good idea that she will do okay in her crate on the plane.
But if she does do not do so well in her crate in the car, you may want to consider a light sedative or anxiety pill your veterinarian can give you to give to her the day of the flight.
When I flew with my 12 pound dog, she mostly slept in her crate. I put in her favorite toy and a chew treat, and although she was curious as to what was happening on take off, she settled down and was okay afterwards. I would never tranquilize my dogs, and I have had to fly show dogs all over and I have even flown with my service dog nineteen times so far.
You just have to take in to consideration how you think your dog will handle it.
I have flown w/ my mini schnauzer several times. One time I did give her a tranquilizer pill, but it left her a bit groggy. Get some Nature's Remedy to take along, just in case she gets anxious. You cannot overdose, and it works fairly quickly.
Also, when you go thru security, take your dog out of the carrier, and carry her thru. The first time I flew w/ my dog, I left her in the carrier thru the x-ray machine. The x-rays didn't hurt her, but the female screener let out a loud yelp when she saw movement! I could just imagine her seeing a skeleton, w/ a wagging tail!
Has anyone ever used this dog food?
Eukenuba, it the one that is made just for Dachshunds
Answers:
Here are the ingredients. The ingredients of concern I put a * by:
Chicken, Chicken By-Product Meal* (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), Corn Meal*, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum*, Ground Whole Grain Barley*, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Natural Chicken Flavor, Brewers Rice*, Dried Beet Pulp* (sugar removed), Dried Egg Product, Fish meal, Brewers Dried Yeast*, Potassium Chloride, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Salt, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of Vitamin B1), Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of Vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of Vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Flax Meal, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), Dried Chicken Cartilage (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), DL-Methionine, L-Carnitine, Rosemary Extract.
Those are all either by-products, fillers, or common allergens. I'd suggest Innova EVO, Orijen, Timberwolf Organics, Chicken Soup, Merrick, etc.
No but I wouldn't recommend Eukanuba. Check out the ingredients... ew.
not a good food. try wellness or chicken soup.
Blak!
Try something higher quality like Nature's Variety, Solid Gold, Canidea, Wellness, Wysong, Innoava Evo, Eagle Pack, etc
Not a good one! Get something that has meat as the first ingredient on the label, not corn.
I've used Euk b4 but not the breed specific ones. It is a good food but I have had much more luck feeding Pro Plan for about 15 yrs. Personally I think the breed specific ones are a gimmick, most dogs can eat the same dog food not ones made for their breed.
Eukenuba is great food, I work at one of the large pet stores and we sell alot of it. With concerns about the recent recalls food is a hot topic.
Always read the labels. Stay away from anything with wheat glutten in it.
Also, if changing your dog's food, don't change it suddenly, you want to mix the old food in with the new food (3 parts old food to 1 part new) and gradually change over to the new food. If you change food quickly you can upset your puppies tummy.
Good Luck
All Eukenuba dog foods are good.
I use that brand the one for german shepherd dogs but used to use the large breed formula and when he was little the puppy stuff he has done well on all of them
Eukenuba is a "premium" food, but not a high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. Making the different foods "specialized" for specific breeds is a marketing scheme.
Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.
Here are some good foods (these are just a few, there are definitely more brands out there that are quality dog food, but it will give you an idea of the ingredients to look for):
Chicken Soup Brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssou...
Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.a...
Or check this website to find GOOD dog foods, not full of fillers and byproducts, they rate dog foods based on the ingredients, 6 being the best. I would recommend feeding only 4+ star foods. Any food 3 stars or less, I would avoid.
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
---
Here's an ingredient comparison of not-so-good food (in this case, Pedigree), to good food (in this case, Chicken Soup brand):
Pedigree:
Ground Whole Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal, Rice, Corn Gluten Meal, Animal Fat (preserved with BHA/BHT), Meat and Bone Meal, Natural Poultry Flavor, Wheat Mill Run, Potassium Chloride, Wheat Flour, Salt, Carmel Color, Vegetable Oil (Source of Linoleic Acid), Vitamins (Choline Chloride, dl-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate [Source of Vitamin E], L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate [Source of Vitamin C*], Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate [Vitamin B1], Biotin, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin Supplement [Vitamin B2], Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement), Minerals (Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Potassium Iodide), Added FD%26C and Lake Colors (Yellow 6, Blue 2, Red 40, Yellow 5).
Chicken Soup Brand:
Chicken, turkey, chicken meal, ocean fish meal, cracked pearled barley, whole grain brown rice, oatmeal, millet, white rice, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), potatoes, egg product, tomato pomace, duck, salmon, flaxseed, natural chicken flavor, choline chloride, dried chicory root, kelp, carrots, peas, apples, tomatoes, blueberries, spinach, dried skim milk, cranberry powder, rosemary extract, parsley flake, yucca schidigera extract, L-carnitine, Enterococcus faecieum, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Saccharomyces cerevesiae fermentation solubles, dried Aspergillus oryzae fermentation extract, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.
Notice how the better food has more meats, less grain, and no by-products than the other brand? That's where to start looking for what food is higher quality. Also be aware, just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's a good food.
---
Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit and kick-backs from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.
---
When switching foods, do it slowly. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A
I would not reccomend any commercial dog food right now cause no one knows if it is safe or not . I feed totally holisitic food bought at a food boutique for dogs . California naturals is a holisitic food and it is good food. good luck .
Chicken Soup brand dog food is the best.
consider switching to Canidae dry dog food , all life stages.this is an all natural food, all human grade ingredients, no by-products, no corn or wheat, no fillers, no beet pulp or salt, no foreign made junk or fillers !!! they make their own food, in their own factory, in the USA, with USA ingredeints !!! many breeders %26 PetQnA.com people recommend Canidae %26 have been using it for years and are very happy with Canidae !!...i switched my 2 dogs to Canidae, after all the recalls started, and i did MAJOR RESEARCH, and found out that Canidae is one of the best dry dog foods available ANYWHERE !!!...check out their website at CANIDAE.COM to learn more and find dealer locations near you !!...they have a money back guarantee, if you are not happy with their products.their all life stages dry dog food is good for puppies, regular %26 senior dogs, and dogs that are overweight also !! my 2 dogs, %26 my daughter-in-laws 3 dogs are all switched to Canidae %26 they love it !! check it out, %26 good luck to you %26 your Dachshund !!!
Answers:
Here are the ingredients. The ingredients of concern I put a * by:
Chicken, Chicken By-Product Meal* (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), Corn Meal*, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum*, Ground Whole Grain Barley*, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Natural Chicken Flavor, Brewers Rice*, Dried Beet Pulp* (sugar removed), Dried Egg Product, Fish meal, Brewers Dried Yeast*, Potassium Chloride, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Salt, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of Vitamin B1), Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of Vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of Vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Flax Meal, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), Dried Chicken Cartilage (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), DL-Methionine, L-Carnitine, Rosemary Extract.
Those are all either by-products, fillers, or common allergens. I'd suggest Innova EVO, Orijen, Timberwolf Organics, Chicken Soup, Merrick, etc.
No but I wouldn't recommend Eukanuba. Check out the ingredients... ew.
not a good food. try wellness or chicken soup.
Blak!
Try something higher quality like Nature's Variety, Solid Gold, Canidea, Wellness, Wysong, Innoava Evo, Eagle Pack, etc
Not a good one! Get something that has meat as the first ingredient on the label, not corn.
I've used Euk b4 but not the breed specific ones. It is a good food but I have had much more luck feeding Pro Plan for about 15 yrs. Personally I think the breed specific ones are a gimmick, most dogs can eat the same dog food not ones made for their breed.
Eukenuba is great food, I work at one of the large pet stores and we sell alot of it. With concerns about the recent recalls food is a hot topic.
Always read the labels. Stay away from anything with wheat glutten in it.
Also, if changing your dog's food, don't change it suddenly, you want to mix the old food in with the new food (3 parts old food to 1 part new) and gradually change over to the new food. If you change food quickly you can upset your puppies tummy.
Good Luck
All Eukenuba dog foods are good.
I use that brand the one for german shepherd dogs but used to use the large breed formula and when he was little the puppy stuff he has done well on all of them
Eukenuba is a "premium" food, but not a high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. Making the different foods "specialized" for specific breeds is a marketing scheme.
Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.
Here are some good foods (these are just a few, there are definitely more brands out there that are quality dog food, but it will give you an idea of the ingredients to look for):
Chicken Soup Brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssou...
Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.a...
Or check this website to find GOOD dog foods, not full of fillers and byproducts, they rate dog foods based on the ingredients, 6 being the best. I would recommend feeding only 4+ star foods. Any food 3 stars or less, I would avoid.
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
---
Here's an ingredient comparison of not-so-good food (in this case, Pedigree), to good food (in this case, Chicken Soup brand):
Pedigree:
Ground Whole Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal, Rice, Corn Gluten Meal, Animal Fat (preserved with BHA/BHT), Meat and Bone Meal, Natural Poultry Flavor, Wheat Mill Run, Potassium Chloride, Wheat Flour, Salt, Carmel Color, Vegetable Oil (Source of Linoleic Acid), Vitamins (Choline Chloride, dl-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate [Source of Vitamin E], L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate [Source of Vitamin C*], Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate [Vitamin B1], Biotin, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin Supplement [Vitamin B2], Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement), Minerals (Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Potassium Iodide), Added FD%26C and Lake Colors (Yellow 6, Blue 2, Red 40, Yellow 5).
Chicken Soup Brand:
Chicken, turkey, chicken meal, ocean fish meal, cracked pearled barley, whole grain brown rice, oatmeal, millet, white rice, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), potatoes, egg product, tomato pomace, duck, salmon, flaxseed, natural chicken flavor, choline chloride, dried chicory root, kelp, carrots, peas, apples, tomatoes, blueberries, spinach, dried skim milk, cranberry powder, rosemary extract, parsley flake, yucca schidigera extract, L-carnitine, Enterococcus faecieum, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Saccharomyces cerevesiae fermentation solubles, dried Aspergillus oryzae fermentation extract, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.
Notice how the better food has more meats, less grain, and no by-products than the other brand? That's where to start looking for what food is higher quality. Also be aware, just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's a good food.
---
Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit and kick-backs from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.
---
When switching foods, do it slowly. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A
I would not reccomend any commercial dog food right now cause no one knows if it is safe or not . I feed totally holisitic food bought at a food boutique for dogs . California naturals is a holisitic food and it is good food. good luck .
Chicken Soup brand dog food is the best.
consider switching to Canidae dry dog food , all life stages.this is an all natural food, all human grade ingredients, no by-products, no corn or wheat, no fillers, no beet pulp or salt, no foreign made junk or fillers !!! they make their own food, in their own factory, in the USA, with USA ingredeints !!! many breeders %26 PetQnA.com people recommend Canidae %26 have been using it for years and are very happy with Canidae !!...i switched my 2 dogs to Canidae, after all the recalls started, and i did MAJOR RESEARCH, and found out that Canidae is one of the best dry dog foods available ANYWHERE !!!...check out their website at CANIDAE.COM to learn more and find dealer locations near you !!...they have a money back guarantee, if you are not happy with their products.their all life stages dry dog food is good for puppies, regular %26 senior dogs, and dogs that are overweight also !! my 2 dogs, %26 my daughter-in-laws 3 dogs are all switched to Canidae %26 they love it !! check it out, %26 good luck to you %26 your Dachshund !!!
Has anyone ever used an underground electric fence and had success?
I am considering getting and underground fence for my dogs. I have heard so many different things about them. I was wondering if they really work. I have 2 pit bulls that are very energetic. I take them for longs walks everyday, but they like to play. It is so hard for them to play in the yard on a leash or a chain. They always end up getting tangeled. I just want them to have some kind of freedom, but also be contained. I do not plan leaving them in the yard when I am not home, so I don't think I will have to worry about them running away if the power goes out. Any suggestions will help, Thanks
Answers:
I HIGHLY suggest a different type of fence that might be a little easier. We use an electric "fence" that has a transmitter instead of wiring. The hub just sits in the house and it transmits a signal over a certain radius around our house- a million times easier than burying a wire! It still shocks them just the same, beeping before they hit the edge of their allowed roaming area so that they are forewarned. Let me know if you want more info and I'll find the exact set we have (which was found much cheaper on eBay!)
yea we've used it, it's worked on the bigger dogs, but my little girl kept getting out =) so it's iffey, it prob lowers the chances
yeah just make sure its one that shocks them
Yeah, and It really saved me from a lot of worry. I could let my lab out without worrying about him getting hit by a car or running away.. It may be kind of expensive, but it's worth it.
My grandparents had one for their dog and it worked great for her.
Good Luck.
dogs bolt if something on the other side more interesting; they take the shock and then know not to return b/c of the shock ; fenced in yard is better than electric fence; one mistake can be costly to pet and neighbor
We have one and love it. My neighbor also has one for her pitbull and rottweiler dog and they are fine with it. Take a few days for them to learn but its worth it.
We've had 2 different fences. The first one we bought from the pet store and installed the line ourselves, it never worked right. The 2nd one is from "Invisible Fence" company. They came out and installed everything then came back and trained the dogs for us. We have 2 bulldog mixes who weigh about 80lbs. They were both scared to death of it for about 3 years then the female ran through it a few times and lost all fear. We increased the zone to the max range and strength, we even put both collars on her so she would get double zap. She'd just yelp and keep going. Bad part is once they're out they are blocked out. She never wanted to return back to her own yard bad enough to take the sting again. She would just pant and look at us like "help". She was more aggresive than the male. We ended up having to have her put to sleep when she snapped at a very little boy. All I can say is good luck. The neighbors hated it. The dogs would run up to the line barking which looked to the neighbors like they were coming after them. They never knew what to expect and neither did we.
Your mileage may vary, but there are breeds the industry doesn't recommend to be placed on an underground pet fence system. This includes breeds that have a high prey drive, or tolerance for pain, such as with Grayhounds, the AmStaffs and Pit Bulls.
If you decide a system is right for you and your pets, you have several choices. There are several excellent do-it-yourself systems on the market (brand names include Innotek and PetSafe), as well as several professional installation %26 training companies (Invisible Fence, Pet Stop, Dog Guard). You will want a quality system that offers static correction that ramps, or intensifies, the closer the dog goes to the boundary wire. The system should also offer a tone correction before the "shock" occurs. You should consider a battery backup system and a lightning protection system for times when there are storms or power outages. Be sure to often check the batteries on your dog's collars. And, as you said, never leave your dogs unattended in the yard, no matter how well they seem to respect the yard's boundary.
Yes they work.
We have/had dog(s)that we trained to use the fence. Once the fence is put in you will have the edges of the yard, where the dogs can go, marked with little flags. Then what you do is put their "outside collar" , have someone help you and go for a walk. When you get to each flag slap it and in a meaningful voice say NO. This lets them know they can't go there. Don't get dog to close they get zapped, not harmful but makes them run back into yard or at least that is the idea. First though they should hear a real loud sound like a whistle, this is like a warning and if they keep going they get zapped. When you feel ok to come off leash put treats in pocket and let them out. If they get zapped and run to you yelping tell them they are good and give a treat. When they come back in house take off there outside collar. It takes time for both you to get use to this. Also after a few times with outsid collar on let them out on own, then call them in.
Good luck :)
Yes they work
But...
The fence doesn't prevent other dogs/animals from getting into your yard. And that being the case, if God forbid your dogs are attacked in any way, they know they aren't able to leave the yard because of the fence - then what??
Personally, I don't like them, but many swear by them.. I guess I'm just one of those people that think, what if....
I have used an underground fence for some time now. At first I was lazy and did not bury the fence - big mistake. It got sliced many times. Last spring I finally took the time and buried it using an electric edger that dug a narrow line 2 inches deep - just enough to get the wire underground. My 2-year-old dog Max was then trained using the border flags and walking the border on a leash for 2 weeks. At that point he was off the leash. He has only been "zapped" twice and that was enough for him. Each week I would take away every other flag up until one month. Max has been completely trained ever since and has not once escaped the fence - even when the pretty dog next door was in heat! Max is a German Shepherd/Norwegian Elkhound mix with very thick hair. He does wear the "Stubborn Dog" version of the PetSafe collar - but only because that is the one I bought - not necessarily because he needed it. PetSafe has excellent customer service. At one point, I had called them because I could not get the collar to work. No questions asked, they replaced the collar free of charge. Just a note - this does not keep other dogs, animals or people out of your yard, just keeps your dog in. I have had the occasional passerby harass my dog - luckily the fence truly works and keeps Max in but I can't say that would be true for all dogs when provoked. Right now I am in the process of adopting Maya - a 6 week old pup - and am hoping to get her started once she reaches 10 weeks or so. We'll see where she's at at that point. One other thing - there are many people who disagree with using a shock collar for any reason. Of course I do not want to harm my dog and the best way to ensure that he is safe from the perils of the road and give him the freedom he deserves was to train him on this fence. A couple of harmless shocks was all that it has taken for our peace of mind. Hope this helps!
Yes, it works BUT you NEED another source than just an electric underground. They will still brave getting out, and then they cannot come home because everytime they get within range they get shocked. two, other dogs can come in and harass or injure your dogs. ALWAYS have more.
Yes, I've had great success with it for my GSD and my daughter's GSD, but I started when they were babies, 3 months, but if your patient, walk the lines with your dogs to show them where the vibrations happen, they should learn pretty quickly where they can or can't go. I don't think it's an actual SHOCK like people say. I've held it in my hand while crossing, and yes, I've thrown it and screamed out of "what the hell was that"? but it was a vibration, not an actual shock.
Answers:
I HIGHLY suggest a different type of fence that might be a little easier. We use an electric "fence" that has a transmitter instead of wiring. The hub just sits in the house and it transmits a signal over a certain radius around our house- a million times easier than burying a wire! It still shocks them just the same, beeping before they hit the edge of their allowed roaming area so that they are forewarned. Let me know if you want more info and I'll find the exact set we have (which was found much cheaper on eBay!)
yea we've used it, it's worked on the bigger dogs, but my little girl kept getting out =) so it's iffey, it prob lowers the chances
yeah just make sure its one that shocks them
Yeah, and It really saved me from a lot of worry. I could let my lab out without worrying about him getting hit by a car or running away.. It may be kind of expensive, but it's worth it.
My grandparents had one for their dog and it worked great for her.
Good Luck.
dogs bolt if something on the other side more interesting; they take the shock and then know not to return b/c of the shock ; fenced in yard is better than electric fence; one mistake can be costly to pet and neighbor
We have one and love it. My neighbor also has one for her pitbull and rottweiler dog and they are fine with it. Take a few days for them to learn but its worth it.
We've had 2 different fences. The first one we bought from the pet store and installed the line ourselves, it never worked right. The 2nd one is from "Invisible Fence" company. They came out and installed everything then came back and trained the dogs for us. We have 2 bulldog mixes who weigh about 80lbs. They were both scared to death of it for about 3 years then the female ran through it a few times and lost all fear. We increased the zone to the max range and strength, we even put both collars on her so she would get double zap. She'd just yelp and keep going. Bad part is once they're out they are blocked out. She never wanted to return back to her own yard bad enough to take the sting again. She would just pant and look at us like "help". She was more aggresive than the male. We ended up having to have her put to sleep when she snapped at a very little boy. All I can say is good luck. The neighbors hated it. The dogs would run up to the line barking which looked to the neighbors like they were coming after them. They never knew what to expect and neither did we.
Your mileage may vary, but there are breeds the industry doesn't recommend to be placed on an underground pet fence system. This includes breeds that have a high prey drive, or tolerance for pain, such as with Grayhounds, the AmStaffs and Pit Bulls.
If you decide a system is right for you and your pets, you have several choices. There are several excellent do-it-yourself systems on the market (brand names include Innotek and PetSafe), as well as several professional installation %26 training companies (Invisible Fence, Pet Stop, Dog Guard). You will want a quality system that offers static correction that ramps, or intensifies, the closer the dog goes to the boundary wire. The system should also offer a tone correction before the "shock" occurs. You should consider a battery backup system and a lightning protection system for times when there are storms or power outages. Be sure to often check the batteries on your dog's collars. And, as you said, never leave your dogs unattended in the yard, no matter how well they seem to respect the yard's boundary.
Yes they work.
We have/had dog(s)that we trained to use the fence. Once the fence is put in you will have the edges of the yard, where the dogs can go, marked with little flags. Then what you do is put their "outside collar" , have someone help you and go for a walk. When you get to each flag slap it and in a meaningful voice say NO. This lets them know they can't go there. Don't get dog to close they get zapped, not harmful but makes them run back into yard or at least that is the idea. First though they should hear a real loud sound like a whistle, this is like a warning and if they keep going they get zapped. When you feel ok to come off leash put treats in pocket and let them out. If they get zapped and run to you yelping tell them they are good and give a treat. When they come back in house take off there outside collar. It takes time for both you to get use to this. Also after a few times with outsid collar on let them out on own, then call them in.
Good luck :)
Yes they work
But...
The fence doesn't prevent other dogs/animals from getting into your yard. And that being the case, if God forbid your dogs are attacked in any way, they know they aren't able to leave the yard because of the fence - then what??
Personally, I don't like them, but many swear by them.. I guess I'm just one of those people that think, what if....
I have used an underground fence for some time now. At first I was lazy and did not bury the fence - big mistake. It got sliced many times. Last spring I finally took the time and buried it using an electric edger that dug a narrow line 2 inches deep - just enough to get the wire underground. My 2-year-old dog Max was then trained using the border flags and walking the border on a leash for 2 weeks. At that point he was off the leash. He has only been "zapped" twice and that was enough for him. Each week I would take away every other flag up until one month. Max has been completely trained ever since and has not once escaped the fence - even when the pretty dog next door was in heat! Max is a German Shepherd/Norwegian Elkhound mix with very thick hair. He does wear the "Stubborn Dog" version of the PetSafe collar - but only because that is the one I bought - not necessarily because he needed it. PetSafe has excellent customer service. At one point, I had called them because I could not get the collar to work. No questions asked, they replaced the collar free of charge. Just a note - this does not keep other dogs, animals or people out of your yard, just keeps your dog in. I have had the occasional passerby harass my dog - luckily the fence truly works and keeps Max in but I can't say that would be true for all dogs when provoked. Right now I am in the process of adopting Maya - a 6 week old pup - and am hoping to get her started once she reaches 10 weeks or so. We'll see where she's at at that point. One other thing - there are many people who disagree with using a shock collar for any reason. Of course I do not want to harm my dog and the best way to ensure that he is safe from the perils of the road and give him the freedom he deserves was to train him on this fence. A couple of harmless shocks was all that it has taken for our peace of mind. Hope this helps!
Yes, it works BUT you NEED another source than just an electric underground. They will still brave getting out, and then they cannot come home because everytime they get within range they get shocked. two, other dogs can come in and harass or injure your dogs. ALWAYS have more.
Yes, I've had great success with it for my GSD and my daughter's GSD, but I started when they were babies, 3 months, but if your patient, walk the lines with your dogs to show them where the vibrations happen, they should learn pretty quickly where they can or can't go. I don't think it's an actual SHOCK like people say. I've held it in my hand while crossing, and yes, I've thrown it and screamed out of "what the hell was that"? but it was a vibration, not an actual shock.
Has anyone ever used a human pregnancy test on a dog?
And did it work? I bred my female 30 days ago. I gave her a human pregnancy test, and it showed negative. I find it hard to believe that she is not pregnant they tied 3 times.
Answers:
The hormones that pregnant humans and pregnant dogs have if they are carrying a fetus are VERY different- human pregnancy tests don't work on dogs! The only way to tell at this stage for sure is to see your vet for a manual palpitation (you have very little time left to do this) or an ultrasound to confirm the pregnancy. If you choose not to do this, you'll just have to 'wait and see'.
I highly doubt it would work... its for humans! How did you get her to pee on the stick? LOL
A human test won't work in this situation as it tests for human hormones. Have patience, at 45 days you can xray to check for pregnancy and do ultrasound a little sooner. Did you check her progesterone levels prior to breeding her?
Best advice is to just be patient. Good luck
Since human hormones/chemistry and dog hormones/chemistry are not the same things, I'd have to say that using a human pregnancy test is NOT going to work.
Veterinarians are good at diagnosing these sorts of things, either through palpation (something I suggest you do not try on your own), or through a blood test.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Human pregnancy test? Huh? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.
No!
Get a hobby!
Human pregnancy tests do NOT work on dogs.
Answers:
The hormones that pregnant humans and pregnant dogs have if they are carrying a fetus are VERY different- human pregnancy tests don't work on dogs! The only way to tell at this stage for sure is to see your vet for a manual palpitation (you have very little time left to do this) or an ultrasound to confirm the pregnancy. If you choose not to do this, you'll just have to 'wait and see'.
I highly doubt it would work... its for humans! How did you get her to pee on the stick? LOL
A human test won't work in this situation as it tests for human hormones. Have patience, at 45 days you can xray to check for pregnancy and do ultrasound a little sooner. Did you check her progesterone levels prior to breeding her?
Best advice is to just be patient. Good luck
Since human hormones/chemistry and dog hormones/chemistry are not the same things, I'd have to say that using a human pregnancy test is NOT going to work.
Veterinarians are good at diagnosing these sorts of things, either through palpation (something I suggest you do not try on your own), or through a blood test.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Human pregnancy test? Huh? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.
No!
Get a hobby!
Human pregnancy tests do NOT work on dogs.
Has anyone ever tried herbal remedies for dog aggression?
I have read about Bach Rescue Remedy and bergamot and they are supposed to help dog aggression.
My dog is in obedience classes but I thought maybe this could be a second way to help the process.
Anyone used these products or have any advice?
Answers:
I don't know that it would help. Dog aggression is instictive and you kind of have to "rewire" your dogs brain to deal with these issues. Maybe it would help 1% of the problem, but training would fix 100% of the problem.
no but u can probably get more info on it just google dog aggression herbal remedy that might help sorry i couldnt be more helpful
The product might be useful for reducing stress in specific situations but it is not a real solution for serious aggression. Training is a much more important part of the process.
Think about this a little bit! I know a lot of people have theories about this, but really; do you feel less aggressive on days when you don't eat meat? What kind of herb besides marijuana makes you FEEL ANY DIFFERENT? I guess if you take dogs meat away he might be too weak to be aggressive; but check the tables of content on dry dog foods, some already have no meat.
It doesn't hurt but it does depend on how aggressive the dog is. It is a very mild just to try to take the edge off. No harm in trying its safe for dogs and children by the way to settle the hyper kids down.
find a holistic vet in your area, they can check your dog over make sure there are no medical reasons for the aggression and then make the best recommendation as to herbal or chemical meds. you also need to check into a trainer that specializes in aggressive dogs.
i heard the bach flowers are really good
My dog is in obedience classes but I thought maybe this could be a second way to help the process.
Anyone used these products or have any advice?
Answers:
I don't know that it would help. Dog aggression is instictive and you kind of have to "rewire" your dogs brain to deal with these issues. Maybe it would help 1% of the problem, but training would fix 100% of the problem.
no but u can probably get more info on it just google dog aggression herbal remedy that might help sorry i couldnt be more helpful
The product might be useful for reducing stress in specific situations but it is not a real solution for serious aggression. Training is a much more important part of the process.
Think about this a little bit! I know a lot of people have theories about this, but really; do you feel less aggressive on days when you don't eat meat? What kind of herb besides marijuana makes you FEEL ANY DIFFERENT? I guess if you take dogs meat away he might be too weak to be aggressive; but check the tables of content on dry dog foods, some already have no meat.
It doesn't hurt but it does depend on how aggressive the dog is. It is a very mild just to try to take the edge off. No harm in trying its safe for dogs and children by the way to settle the hyper kids down.
find a holistic vet in your area, they can check your dog over make sure there are no medical reasons for the aggression and then make the best recommendation as to herbal or chemical meds. you also need to check into a trainer that specializes in aggressive dogs.
i heard the bach flowers are really good
Has anyone ever tired herbal remedies in a dog?
My dog in snarly, Growly and has a general dislike for kids. I have two kids. I would like to try a natural herbal aggresion supplement on him but does it work? I have taken him to the vet and he said after other suggestions, some animals like people are more grumpier than others.
And no my kids have never hurt or harmed him in anyway. Just love and alot of treats.
Answers:
i use herbal remedies on all my dogs for fleas worms etc you will find the following websites useful . www.denes.co.uk and the dorwest and horrell webpage..both have side heading for ailments (check dorwest and horrell first) and i no that they have stuff available for aggression in dogs but cant remember wot its called off the top of my head, iv a booklet upstairs from them that is excellent but cant be naffed to go and check the name of the tablet that they advise administring so you are more than welcome to mail me and i can give you more indepth info as il have my book to hand xx
You would be better off to slowly socialize him to kids than to trust an herbal remedy to help with aggression.. Training is always a better idea.. What happens if you are used to giving him 2 doses a day and he is good with the kids.. Suddenly he needs more to maintain his happy mood and he doesn't get it.. Will he be grumpy and bite the kid cause he doesn't have his medication?
Some are less tolerant, some are more forgiving.. But that's why you go to a breeder cause they can tell you which one is best in which home.. Which one will be more forgiving if the kid accidentally steps on his tail etc.. You got the one that needs more work, needs more socialization and isn't as tolerant..
Unless you can be sure that you'll never run out of the medication, or sure that he'll never become used to it.. It would be better to train and socialize him.
Hey there. I think that giving herbal remedies is a great idea as a part of a training program. In other words, using the herbal "Calm Down"-types of mixtures (there are many to choose from) will help, but you will also need to work on the cause of the problem.
If he dislikes kids, don't force him to hang out with them. Yes - have the kids give him treats and involve them in your positive, reward-based training - but there must be absolutely no teasing on the part of the kids. Your dog must be allowed to have his own, kid-free space.
Your kids may not have harmed your dog, but there is a reason why he is "snarly." Seek the help of a positive trainer who won't be using a shock collar or choke/prong collar to force your dog to submit.
Look here to find a trainer:
http://www.apdt.com
And no my kids have never hurt or harmed him in anyway. Just love and alot of treats.
Answers:
i use herbal remedies on all my dogs for fleas worms etc you will find the following websites useful . www.denes.co.uk and the dorwest and horrell webpage..both have side heading for ailments (check dorwest and horrell first) and i no that they have stuff available for aggression in dogs but cant remember wot its called off the top of my head, iv a booklet upstairs from them that is excellent but cant be naffed to go and check the name of the tablet that they advise administring so you are more than welcome to mail me and i can give you more indepth info as il have my book to hand xx
You would be better off to slowly socialize him to kids than to trust an herbal remedy to help with aggression.. Training is always a better idea.. What happens if you are used to giving him 2 doses a day and he is good with the kids.. Suddenly he needs more to maintain his happy mood and he doesn't get it.. Will he be grumpy and bite the kid cause he doesn't have his medication?
Some are less tolerant, some are more forgiving.. But that's why you go to a breeder cause they can tell you which one is best in which home.. Which one will be more forgiving if the kid accidentally steps on his tail etc.. You got the one that needs more work, needs more socialization and isn't as tolerant..
Unless you can be sure that you'll never run out of the medication, or sure that he'll never become used to it.. It would be better to train and socialize him.
Hey there. I think that giving herbal remedies is a great idea as a part of a training program. In other words, using the herbal "Calm Down"-types of mixtures (there are many to choose from) will help, but you will also need to work on the cause of the problem.
If he dislikes kids, don't force him to hang out with them. Yes - have the kids give him treats and involve them in your positive, reward-based training - but there must be absolutely no teasing on the part of the kids. Your dog must be allowed to have his own, kid-free space.
Your kids may not have harmed your dog, but there is a reason why he is "snarly." Seek the help of a positive trainer who won't be using a shock collar or choke/prong collar to force your dog to submit.
Look here to find a trainer:
http://www.apdt.com
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