These are dry foods that have tested positive for melamine from contaminated rice protein concentrate.
http://www.royalcanin.us/
http://www.itchmo.com
Answers:
Man, when is it going to end?! I read an article that the Chinese have been putting small amounts of melamine in pet food for years because it's cheap and in tests it looks like a protein. So along side undigestable protein like chicken feet, our poor pets have been eating melamine.
So sad. No wonder so many die so young.
I make my pet's food at home now.
Yes, thank you for bringing it to my attention. Scary stuff all of this.
Thanks for the update !!!
This was posted in yahoo groups [MenuFoodsClassAction] Re:pet food recall
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkybv2wa8...
oh my gosh, this is neverending! How many more brands are buying cheap contaminated rice?
It really totally destroy my trust in those brands.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Have jack russell he is lovely at times but every time you take him out he goes for other dogs hates big?
dogs sometimes go or small ones too he has been casterated over year ago cause vet said it would stop him but its not now they say he should be mussled how can i stop him without mussling him
Answers:
Does your dog do this when on and off the lead? If he only does this on the lead then it is probably security issues, or if he does this all the time then it is likely to be lack of socialisation when he was young. There are several methods that could help you to prevent this, you could use distraction where you carry his favourite toy or treat and as a dog comes near use it to guide him past the dog, by drawing his attention to the item in your hand. If he still goes for the dog don't give him the treat and take him straight home ignoring him completely. He will soon realise you are not happy with his behaviour.
Another method you could try would be aversion. Hold the lead folded over so you are holding slightly lower than normal, as a dog approaches, if your dog goes for it simultaneously turn around let the lead go to its normal length at the same time, say NO in a firm voice and walk away. This confuses the dog as it does not understand why there has been a sudden change in direction and takes away the object which the dog was focussing on.
Yet another way is to get your dog to sit as you see an approaching dog show it a treat and tell it to stay. If it stays while the dog goes past praise it and give it a treat, it may take some time but the dog will learn that its negative behaviour does not benefit it whilst reacting positively to your commands when other dogs are nearby will gain a positive reaction to you.
hope that helps
he wasn't properly socialized with other animals when he was little.. try to take an obedience class,, this will be good for both you and for socializing
i`ve had 2 over the years and they both hated other dogs.
I own and love Jack Russell Terrorists, but they are not like other breeds. You cannot train them like you would another dog. They are smashing little dogs, but they have some weird traits. The biggest one being their innate hatered for bigger dogs, especially male JRT's.
Unfortunately for you, it sounds like you had your dog castrated after his hate for them had set in. You need to keep him on a lead its the only fair solution.
I HAVE 2 JACK RUSSELLS MINI AND COOPER, MINI IS FINE BUT COOPER IS A VERY DIFFERENT STORY, HE IS A LOVELY DOG WHEN HE IS AT HOME BUT AS SOON AS WE GO OUT HE BARKS AND TRIES TO GO FOR OTHER DOGS, WHEN HE IS OF THE LEAD HE IS OK THOUGH. I WAS READING ABOUT TAKING A SQUIRTY BOTTLE OUT WITH US FULL OF WATER AND SQUIRTING HIM WHEN HE STARTS SO I THINK I AM GOING TO HAVE A GO AT THIS.
I think your vet gave you wrong ideas about neutering!!It doesn't stop aggresion!Neutering if done before a problem begins helps calm dogs down more,it can also stop territory marking in the house,wandering and help with some dominance in males.However your dog has a learnt behaviour pattern,he proberly feels threatened,scared,territorial,... he basically just doesn't like the other dog,like humans we can't expect dogs to like every dog they meet.Depending on the severity of the aggresion,it may be able to be controlled with the help of a behaviourist.If your dog is causing injury or attacking with out no warning,then muzzling is the safest option for your dog and other peoples.Always keep your dog on the lead around other dogs,if he does attack try to not shout or panic as the dog senses this and reacts to it,a pack leader is calm and controlled and that's what you are remember.Never try to break a fight up,this can result in you getting injured.Dogs rarely do damage to each other and it looks worse then what it is,dogs use noise to threaten one another,and to weaken there opponent.I have a jack russel cross and she's also aggresive towards other dogs and has to be muzzled!!Jr's are known for being very brave and many do have dog to dog aggresion issues.If his behaviour is really out of control seek the advice of a behaviourist/trainer who is expeirienced in dog aggresion.Good luck.
Take him to training and socialisation classes.
In the meantime muzzle him-if he attacks a really big dog he might get killed in a fight and if that happens it won't be the other dogs fault as it will just be defending itself.
Answers:
Does your dog do this when on and off the lead? If he only does this on the lead then it is probably security issues, or if he does this all the time then it is likely to be lack of socialisation when he was young. There are several methods that could help you to prevent this, you could use distraction where you carry his favourite toy or treat and as a dog comes near use it to guide him past the dog, by drawing his attention to the item in your hand. If he still goes for the dog don't give him the treat and take him straight home ignoring him completely. He will soon realise you are not happy with his behaviour.
Another method you could try would be aversion. Hold the lead folded over so you are holding slightly lower than normal, as a dog approaches, if your dog goes for it simultaneously turn around let the lead go to its normal length at the same time, say NO in a firm voice and walk away. This confuses the dog as it does not understand why there has been a sudden change in direction and takes away the object which the dog was focussing on.
Yet another way is to get your dog to sit as you see an approaching dog show it a treat and tell it to stay. If it stays while the dog goes past praise it and give it a treat, it may take some time but the dog will learn that its negative behaviour does not benefit it whilst reacting positively to your commands when other dogs are nearby will gain a positive reaction to you.
hope that helps
he wasn't properly socialized with other animals when he was little.. try to take an obedience class,, this will be good for both you and for socializing
i`ve had 2 over the years and they both hated other dogs.
I own and love Jack Russell Terrorists, but they are not like other breeds. You cannot train them like you would another dog. They are smashing little dogs, but they have some weird traits. The biggest one being their innate hatered for bigger dogs, especially male JRT's.
Unfortunately for you, it sounds like you had your dog castrated after his hate for them had set in. You need to keep him on a lead its the only fair solution.
I HAVE 2 JACK RUSSELLS MINI AND COOPER, MINI IS FINE BUT COOPER IS A VERY DIFFERENT STORY, HE IS A LOVELY DOG WHEN HE IS AT HOME BUT AS SOON AS WE GO OUT HE BARKS AND TRIES TO GO FOR OTHER DOGS, WHEN HE IS OF THE LEAD HE IS OK THOUGH. I WAS READING ABOUT TAKING A SQUIRTY BOTTLE OUT WITH US FULL OF WATER AND SQUIRTING HIM WHEN HE STARTS SO I THINK I AM GOING TO HAVE A GO AT THIS.
I think your vet gave you wrong ideas about neutering!!It doesn't stop aggresion!Neutering if done before a problem begins helps calm dogs down more,it can also stop territory marking in the house,wandering and help with some dominance in males.However your dog has a learnt behaviour pattern,he proberly feels threatened,scared,territorial,... he basically just doesn't like the other dog,like humans we can't expect dogs to like every dog they meet.Depending on the severity of the aggresion,it may be able to be controlled with the help of a behaviourist.If your dog is causing injury or attacking with out no warning,then muzzling is the safest option for your dog and other peoples.Always keep your dog on the lead around other dogs,if he does attack try to not shout or panic as the dog senses this and reacts to it,a pack leader is calm and controlled and that's what you are remember.Never try to break a fight up,this can result in you getting injured.Dogs rarely do damage to each other and it looks worse then what it is,dogs use noise to threaten one another,and to weaken there opponent.I have a jack russel cross and she's also aggresive towards other dogs and has to be muzzled!!Jr's are known for being very brave and many do have dog to dog aggresion issues.If his behaviour is really out of control seek the advice of a behaviourist/trainer who is expeirienced in dog aggresion.Good luck.
Take him to training and socialisation classes.
In the meantime muzzle him-if he attacks a really big dog he might get killed in a fight and if that happens it won't be the other dogs fault as it will just be defending itself.
Have i the only staffie who breaks wind like an adult?
Answers:
Dogs love to break wind - and as noisily as possible! Mine looks round at his behind afterwards - as though it had a life of its own!!!
yes
you may have the only staffy but you don't have the only dog. My two are the noisest ever.
my mother-in-law has a greyhound who farts all the time and it stinks
I have a small dog, and she doesn't fart often, but when she does... MAN! I don't know what it is, but sometimes I wonder how so much smelliness can fit into such a small body.
But then we're all animals, and I would lie if I said mine smelled like roses. So mutual tolerance for our gaseous emissions prevails.
No matter how it goes I'm gonna clear the room.
try a diet change to a high quality dry kibble,,, canidae is good
hahahah nope...my mastiff sounds like a person sometimes.
No you dont! my sister in law has one that farts so bad she can clear a room full of adults.
If a new dog it could be stress related , and a normal reaction to stress, a dollop of plain yogurt on their food can reduce.
if gassy all time it means something in the kibble or a treat you feed is causing a build up a gas, eliminate all treats see if that helps some, if it does introduce one at a time giving only one type over a few day, if the gas returns the treat is the culprit, if gassy with just the food, look at the ingredients on the bag, does it contain corn, wheat or soy -- they are the most likely ingredients that will cause tummy upsets and gassiness look for a food without those ingredients.
Sometime dog will also get a bit more gassier during food changes that is a normal adjustment change but will taper off the nest to nothing after a couple of week if the food agrees with the digestive system.
It is much like with people beans tend to cause a lot of people to get gassy if the eat a lot off they remain gassy but if they avoid then they may rarely toot unless they eat some other food that causes gassiness, a dogs just like people can experience stomach pains when too much gas forms, so an occasional is accesptable but breaking wind all the time indicates a problem and is not normal
Have Great Dane w/possible Pano..have heard goes from one leg to other...what is approx. time frame for this?
Answers:
Panosteitis usually limits itself by age two, but it's very unpredictable. My Great Pyrenees came down with pano at about 5 months and has been without symptoms since about 10 months...I think we were lucky. I treated him with buffered aspirin when he seemed to be in pain. I also started to do more research on food, and switched to one without corn, wheat or soy and added Solid Gold SeaMeal to his food. I am not saying that the food helped with the pano, but it was around the same time as when he started to get better, so who knows?
What you have heard is correct, it does go from leg to leg...some people call it "wandering lameness."
Did your vet xray your dog?
Good luck to your dog :)
Pano is basically growing pains for dogs. There is no "cure" for Pano- you just have to let your dog do his growing. You may want to try some glucosamine supplements to help with the sinovial fluid in your dog's joints. The glucosamine will help with the Pano.
What causes panosteitis?
The cause of panosteitis is currently unknown. There have been many theories as to the cause of this disease. Originally, it was suspected that the disease was caused by a bacterial infection. However, several investigational studies failed to isolate any bacteria. In addition, the disease responds poorly to antibiotics, further suggesting a cause other than bacterial.
Other studies showed that if bone marrow from affected dogs was injected into the bones of healthy dogs, the healthy dogs would contract the disease. It has therefore been speculated that a virus may cause the disease. The high fever, tonsillitis, and altered white blood cell count would also go along with the viral theory. Another interesting twist to the viral theory is that panosteitis was first identified as a problem at the same time that modified live distemper vaccines became widely available on the market. Since wild distemper virus can be isolated from bone tissue, some researchers feel that there might be a link between distemper virus vaccine and panosteitis, however, more research in this area will need to be done before any serious speculations can be made.
Another theory is that panosteitis might have a genetic link. Because of the greatly increased incidence in certain breeds and families of dogs, it is very likely that there is a genetic component involved in this disease.
Lately, there have been some claims that nutrition, particularly protein and fat concentrations in the diet, may have an impact on the incidence of the disease. But here again, more research needs to be done to substantiate these claims. Most likely this is a multifactorial disease that has several different causes including viral, genetic, and possibly nutritional.
What are the symptoms?
Presenting symptoms include a history of acute sudden lameness not associated with any trauma. It is usually a large breed male dog between the ages of 6 to 18 months. There are periods of lameness lasting from 2 to 3 weeks and it may shift from leg to leg. The most commonly affected bones are the radius, ulna, humerus, femur, and tibia, though the foot and pelvic bones may also be involved. The dog may show a reluctance to walk or exercise. When the affected bones are squeezed, the dog reacts painfully. Occasionally, affected dogs will have a fever, tonsillitis, or an elevated white blood cell count.
How is panosteitis diagnosed?
Panosteitis is often diagnosed based on a combination of presenting signs and radiographs (x-rays). The presenting symptoms are listed above. If a dog is suspected of having panosteitis, then radiographs are indicated to confirm the diagnosis. Individual radiographs of each affected limb should be taken. Often, radiographs of the unaffected limbs are also taken to compare the bone changes. In early forms of the disease, a subtle increase in bone density is observed in the center part of the affected bones. During the middle part of the disease, the bone becomes more patchy or mottled in appearance and the outer surface of the bone may appear roughened. In the late phase, the bone is still slightly mottled, but is beginning to return to a more normal appearance.
How is panosteitis treated?
There is no specific treatment for the disease. Since this condition is often very painful, painkillers such as buffered aspirin or carprofen (Rimadyl) are recommended. (Do NOT give your cat aspirin unless prescribed by your veterinarian.) These products are used as needed to help control the pain. Antibiotics are not routinely used unless there are indications of concurrent infections. In severe cases, steroids are used, but because of the potential long-term side effects of these drugs, painkillers are often tried first. This disease is self-limiting and after it runs its course, there are very few long-term side effects or need for further treatment. As mentioned earlier, the disease usually lasts for two to five months, but can last much longer. There are several conditions with similar symptoms, so if a dog continues to have symptoms after the normal period of time or is not responding to treatment, she should be reevaluated.
How is panosteitis prevented?
There is currently no way to prevent the disease. However, because of the potential genetic link, breeding animals should be screened to ensure that they are not potential carriers of the disease. Despite the numerous puppy foods catering to large breed dogs, there is no current evidence that confirms that these foods will lower the incidence of the disease when compared to standard commercial puppy food. If an animal shows symptoms of the disease, they should be promptly diagnosed and treated and exercise and activity should be reduced until the symptoms have gone away.
Have any of you ever had the "the almost indistructible ball" by PetSmart?
Did your dog(s) actually play with it? Is it good with horses? How long did it last? Do you think it would be good for kids to play with(so it won't pop it it lands on something pokey)? Thanks in advance!
Answers:
I actually bought that for my two shepherds to play with since they pop every other ball they have in about 5 minutes of playing with it. So far (and I've had it about a month) they haven't been able to snap it with all their playing. I'm actually shocked that it hasn't broken yet. I'm sure some dogs who are intent on "killing" a toy might be able to break it, but if you are using it for playing and the fact that your dogs jaws break lots of other toys then I think its a great toy.
NO it sounds like it would break after MY dog played with it.
It is destructible. I got one for my friends Jack Russell terrier. It lived all of 3 days. The dog annihilated it.
you shop for your kids toys on petsmart!!! lol
my pitt/husky mix destroys all her toys if you find one that really works please let me know!!!
hmmm no...I never heard of it. My jack russell has just about every other ball from PetSmart though--she's obsessed.
I was looking on the PetSmart, people gave reviews for the ball.and they said it was sooo hard that their dogs didnt want to play with it and couldnt even pick it up.
I don't know how great it would be for kids, I would look for a softer rubber ball.
I haven't had this exact item- but if you (or the above poster) are looking for a truly almost indistructable ball, I would strongly suggest investing in a jolly ball. They were originally horse toys, and I had them for my horses for years; now I have two horse sized ones in my back yard for my rott and my great dane. They will stay inflated even if punctured, and come in a variety of sizes. As they are made of a softer material, a determined chewer can get them apart, but they are extremely durable and should last you several months if you monitor your dogs play time.
You will find the greatest variety of sizes by searching the web.
Answers:
I actually bought that for my two shepherds to play with since they pop every other ball they have in about 5 minutes of playing with it. So far (and I've had it about a month) they haven't been able to snap it with all their playing. I'm actually shocked that it hasn't broken yet. I'm sure some dogs who are intent on "killing" a toy might be able to break it, but if you are using it for playing and the fact that your dogs jaws break lots of other toys then I think its a great toy.
NO it sounds like it would break after MY dog played with it.
It is destructible. I got one for my friends Jack Russell terrier. It lived all of 3 days. The dog annihilated it.
you shop for your kids toys on petsmart!!! lol
my pitt/husky mix destroys all her toys if you find one that really works please let me know!!!
hmmm no...I never heard of it. My jack russell has just about every other ball from PetSmart though--she's obsessed.
I was looking on the PetSmart, people gave reviews for the ball.and they said it was sooo hard that their dogs didnt want to play with it and couldnt even pick it up.
I don't know how great it would be for kids, I would look for a softer rubber ball.
I haven't had this exact item- but if you (or the above poster) are looking for a truly almost indistructable ball, I would strongly suggest investing in a jolly ball. They were originally horse toys, and I had them for my horses for years; now I have two horse sized ones in my back yard for my rott and my great dane. They will stay inflated even if punctured, and come in a variety of sizes. As they are made of a softer material, a determined chewer can get them apart, but they are extremely durable and should last you several months if you monitor your dogs play time.
You will find the greatest variety of sizes by searching the web.
Have a yorkie & need to know what is the best flea med since there are so many brands?
He has had no fleas in yrs and w/out any kind of med. As an alternative, med, what works best? So many brands it confuses me. I would like the best for my pet Scruffy.
Answers:
The best flea treatment is one you get from a vet. I recommend Frontline.
There aren't that many brands - well, there are a lot in petshops and supermarkets, and many don't work! Vets carry Frontline, Revolution, Advantage/Advantix, Advocate and Program.
Go to your vet for them to advise you on the best brand. You can get a nice spot-on - no mess, no fuss, and it works. No need for flea shampoo palava!
Chalice
EDIT: It really annoys me wjhen people refer to flea treatments as 'toxins'! That is just ignorance. Fipronil and the like are not toxins to dogs, since dogs are not insects! Frontline is harmless to dogs.
Whatever you do get it from a vet. OTC flea meds can be deadly especially Hartz brands.
Revolution and Frontline are great and help control multiple things besides fleas so they are great.
I do not use toxins on my dogs - IF there is a flea around then I will use lemon juice and water, spritz onto the dog - you can get the recipe from Dr Pitcairn's book and perhaps if you google it - I use one lemon, sliced, in a pint of hot water - allow it to steep over night and spray on dog once it has cooled - BE VERY CAREFUL around eyes, nose and mouth, you might want to use a small sponge to apply IF the dog has fleas around the face area
if he has ever been outside in his life, it is highly unlikely he has never had fleas - maybe they just dont bother him as much as they do other dogs or you just havent noticed them.
this doesnt mean however that its ok to let him have them - they introduce infection and disease.
Frontline is the best. Advantage isnt bad, but doesnt work for some dogs, particularly over long periods of time.
Frontline will kill all fleas, their eggs and ticks and is applied monthly.
.
If you want the best, talk to your vet. She/he knows the dog's history.
I've used Frontline for years with good results. Something to keep in mind, if your dog is under 10 lbs, the entire vial may be too strong. I found that out with my poodles that are 4.10 lbs, 5 lbs %26 8 lbs. When I used the whole thing, they were real lethargic for a couple days. I took them to the vet %26 they suggested I use 1/2 of the vial. I've done that for 2 years now %26 it's worked great.
Answers:
The best flea treatment is one you get from a vet. I recommend Frontline.
There aren't that many brands - well, there are a lot in petshops and supermarkets, and many don't work! Vets carry Frontline, Revolution, Advantage/Advantix, Advocate and Program.
Go to your vet for them to advise you on the best brand. You can get a nice spot-on - no mess, no fuss, and it works. No need for flea shampoo palava!
Chalice
EDIT: It really annoys me wjhen people refer to flea treatments as 'toxins'! That is just ignorance. Fipronil and the like are not toxins to dogs, since dogs are not insects! Frontline is harmless to dogs.
Whatever you do get it from a vet. OTC flea meds can be deadly especially Hartz brands.
Revolution and Frontline are great and help control multiple things besides fleas so they are great.
I do not use toxins on my dogs - IF there is a flea around then I will use lemon juice and water, spritz onto the dog - you can get the recipe from Dr Pitcairn's book and perhaps if you google it - I use one lemon, sliced, in a pint of hot water - allow it to steep over night and spray on dog once it has cooled - BE VERY CAREFUL around eyes, nose and mouth, you might want to use a small sponge to apply IF the dog has fleas around the face area
if he has ever been outside in his life, it is highly unlikely he has never had fleas - maybe they just dont bother him as much as they do other dogs or you just havent noticed them.
this doesnt mean however that its ok to let him have them - they introduce infection and disease.
Frontline is the best. Advantage isnt bad, but doesnt work for some dogs, particularly over long periods of time.
Frontline will kill all fleas, their eggs and ticks and is applied monthly.
.
If you want the best, talk to your vet. She/he knows the dog's history.
I've used Frontline for years with good results. Something to keep in mind, if your dog is under 10 lbs, the entire vial may be too strong. I found that out with my poodles that are 4.10 lbs, 5 lbs %26 8 lbs. When I used the whole thing, they were real lethargic for a couple days. I took them to the vet %26 they suggested I use 1/2 of the vial. I've done that for 2 years now %26 it's worked great.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Have a way to rid of ticks in house ?? is there something on market for ridding of ticks in yard?
Our dog tracks in ticks.. he's on frontline but apparently not doing any good.
Answers:
Try revolution. Ticks and fleas have an amazing ability to develop resistance to various medications. You should use another brand and switch often. ie. try revolution next, after a few months use advantage, then switch back to revolution, etc. Even if the product is still working, keep switching brands to prevent resistance.
You can go to Lowes or any other garden store and they will be able to recommend you something for your yard.
Treat your yard with tick treatment and also, is your dog on the collar frontline or the liquid frontline you spread on his shoulders down his back?
you can go to your hardware store and buy what they call sevendust, you put it in your carpet and and then wait about an hour,then vacum,you can also put it around your front proch on the ground and that should help.i had to get me some about 2 weeks ago,and i sprinkle some in my carpet and let it stay there over night and then vacum it up.but it help.and also kills any kind of parasites.
Answers:
Try revolution. Ticks and fleas have an amazing ability to develop resistance to various medications. You should use another brand and switch often. ie. try revolution next, after a few months use advantage, then switch back to revolution, etc. Even if the product is still working, keep switching brands to prevent resistance.
You can go to Lowes or any other garden store and they will be able to recommend you something for your yard.
Treat your yard with tick treatment and also, is your dog on the collar frontline or the liquid frontline you spread on his shoulders down his back?
you can go to your hardware store and buy what they call sevendust, you put it in your carpet and and then wait about an hour,then vacum,you can also put it around your front proch on the ground and that should help.i had to get me some about 2 weeks ago,and i sprinkle some in my carpet and let it stay there over night and then vacum it up.but it help.and also kills any kind of parasites.
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